Bali: Magical meal at Ibu Oka’s
Babi Guling at Warung Ibu Oka
I never really liked roast pork, but after a meal at Ibu Oka’s warung in Bali last month, I became an instant convert.
Only to her style of spit-roasted suckling pig, however.
You see, the cavity of each pig is stuffed with a secret blend of spices and gravy before being lovingly roasted for five hours. The result is paper-thin crackling and flesh that is tender, moist and fall-off-the-bone delicious. The meat is smooth and very umami and the special chilli that accompanies it gives it a certain “zing”. It was my best meal in Bali and I dare say, it was my best meal in a while. Mmmm… I haven’t been this excited about meat in a long, long time.
Warung Ibu Oka, popular with both locals and tourists
Teeming with diners
Situated opposite the Ubud Royal Palace, the warung (cafe) does a roaring trade from 11am to 3pm daily and a lady there told me that they sell about six pigs a day (that’s about 600 plates of babi guling sets). Speaking of sets, that should be what you should order if you visit – it’s made up of steamed rice, tender pieces of roast pork, a piece of skin, blood sausage and a portion of a local spicy vegetable dish. This will set you back about Rp20,000 (S$3 or US$2).
A babi guling set seen through a display case
Besides li’l ol’ me, famous celebrity chefs who have raved about Warung Ibu Oka include Anthony Bourdain, Jamie Oliver and Rick Stein. Apparently, the latter managed to get Ibu Oka’s recipe and I’ve read that it’s included in his book, Far Eastern Odyssey. I have to check it out at the bookshop when I’ve the chance!
Jeff wasn’t with me on this particular trip to Bali and so, didn’t get to taste this magical dish. I’m keen to bring him, of course. And isn’t that just the perfect reason to make another trip back to Bali? 
*****
- Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka is located at Jalan Tegal Sari #2, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 976345.
- Don’t worry if you don’t know how to find it, just ask any driver or local. It really is that famous!
*****
Esther
